chron·i·cles: Sally Forth!

The days of always dozing pool side, bored and burnt, are gone forever. Edinburgh, Scotland offers local charm, atmosphere with attitude and a new holiday frontier for the explorer, historian and shopping enthusiast alike.

From the perspective of a tourist, it’s tempting to hit the more than 5000 streets without a plan or provisions. Stumbling upon these undeniably historic stone buildings hurtles you head first into daydreams of a former life, where people depended more on one another and less on the conveniences of technology. Each road is built with a purpose and yet, hardly any two buildings look alike. It is this architectural twist which has helped make Edinburgh one of Britain’s most visited cities, second in fact only to London, a short 5-hour train ride away.

Locals recommend starting with the obvious. Princes Street, where vehicles are prohibited, offers a matured first glimpse into what Edinburgh has ultimately become, as it combines a crude blend of new world shopping and old world charm. While highlighting the typical high end shops discerning Brits have come to reply on, the south side of the road presents an incredible panoramic view of the Old City. From here, what is clear is the evolution and expansion that has been in the forethought of city planners throughout the centuries and that preservation of Edinburgh’s medieval influence and Reformation-era has become, perhaps unknowingly, a prized achievement.

Crowned by a perching Edinburgh Castle, Royal Mile descends through the ages along the East side of a once active volcano (the resulting terrain being both a blessing and obstacle for the over 7000 years of residents on Castlehill), and concludes with the Queen’s official residence in Edinburgh, the Royal Palace of Holyroodhouse. Hostile England kept the city from expanding outward and therefore beyond its defensive shell, but in response to the city’s continually growing population, which by 1654 had as many as 70,000 people living within, architects sought for a way to build up. Clever planners, including 12th century’s King David I who was first to be inspired by the possibilities of what a hill fort and clachan (village) could provide, began to structure the herringbone pattern of closes, or ‘dividing enclosures,’ which can still be observed branching from the Royal Mile today. Here, at first, weighty timber buildings were constructed and then named after landowners, a tradition still upheld on present day Royal Mile. The enclosures housed large gardens and livestock, and though the English burned the medieval garden city in 1544 forcing the residents to rebuild, the new stone structures were a success and many remain today often in their original form.

Yet, it is Edinburgh’s darker times that many find most captivating. Though by the 17th century dwellings were as high as fourteen stories, overcrowding became an epidemic. Upwards three hundred people could be found living on each block with often more than ten people sharing a single room. Modernization of the old town set new buildings directly atop the old ones, while cellars were excavated beneath the ground, creating an elaborate infrastructure of homes, markets, storage and shops. Squalid cramped conditions teamed with an uncontrolled rat population and poor sanitation, particularly in the decades leading up to the New Town. Combined with the absence of medical treatment, daily life exploded into a sporadic and disconcerting spread of plague.

Nearly all households, regardless of class or wealth, suffered the rapid onset of pneumonia and boils. Death came within days and the monarchy, desperate to contain the spreading infection, believed that no hope existed for the victims and so sought to close them off completely from the remaining healthy population. Mary King’s Close is probably one of the more infamous of these closed off quarters, where over 300 people were entombed and left to die. Today, the dank stony walls of Mary King’s Close are open to the daring and is reputed to be one of the most haunted spaces in Scotland. Interested chill-seekers meet authentically clad tour guides who examine the myths and lengths of their underground city, recap the most thrilling ghost stories to date and make introductions to the souls that reside within.

Meanwhile, the monarchy and surrounding nobility continued to uphold a level of luxury completely removed from the residents of Capitalhill. Dominating the city from its rocky outcrop since the 12th century, Edinburgh Castle remains not only a fascinating historic monument, but also a working military fortress and home to the Scottish Division headquarters. Tours open to the public at 9:30am daily with admission set at less than £10 per person, allowing anyone to observe firsthand the results of wartime siege and the efforts to rebuild.

Here, you’ll continue to brush against the occult while walking the castle’s vaults or visiting the Witches Well, where women of all ages were burnt for witchcraft. The Great Hall offers a spectacular glimpse into daily decadence with its ornate hammerbeam ceiling and visitors to the Bath House can see where Mary, Queen of Scots is rumored to have bathed in red wine. The Stone of Destiny and the Scottish Crown Jewels are lain out in the Crown Room and the tiny rooms of the Royal Apartments house a permanent exhibit where major events in Scotland’s history are on display, including the birth of James I of England. But it is St. Margaret’s Chapel, the oldest structure in Edinburgh and the only building spared by Robert the Bruce when he took hold of the castle in the 14th century, which captures the imagination of the romantic. With some advanced planning, you could even hold your own wedding here.

Yet, many visit Edinburgh simply to sit among the people of Scotland and reap the social rewards. They are a strong and rugged people, with generations of folklore and tradition still in the forefront of their society. To this day, kilt clad countrymen can still be seen crossing the street and the Gaelic language heard in even Edinburgh homes. Traditionally, it is only clan members that are allowed to wear the ceremonial kilts, yet in Edinburgh, the royal kiltmaker, Kinloch Anderson, is open to local and international customers alike, making it possible now to research family lines or have your own ancestral tartan, or plaid design, prepared. And although the decline of the clan system has already been felt, many still uphold the dignity and allegiance called forth by their family Coat of Arms. Clans, the term understood widely now to include a close knit extended family, can still be seen to dictate the distribution of inheritances and use of property. It is this predilection to regard ancestors who have come even centuries before with reverence that adds warmth to the countryside.

And as you’ll learn firsthand, warmth is not always easy to come to by in Edinburgh. Though only a few degrees colder on average than London, the rapidly changing and forever unpredictable weather patterns will put a chill in your bones before you know. It has been often said that Scotland is just too good at producing weather. It has, after all, managed to seemingly fit all four seasons into a single day. But locals prefer to see it another way; referring to their skies as being atmospheric and having attitude. On cold days, whiskey helps, and of course you should always have a thick jacket on hand, but the best way to keep warm is to find a seat. The city is brimming with world-class theatrical productions and each of the museums contain brilliant works of art and history. Find yourself in town during August and you’ll see the city come alive with the sounds and lights of Edinburgh’s renowned International Festival.

Filling the city with the malty warmth of a bakery, whiskey itself should remain an experience all of its own. Such a great part of Scotland’s pride resides in its ability to produce some of the best whiskey in the world. For the true experience, enthusiasts religiously follow the Scottish Whiskey Trail which runs the full length of whiskey heaven. Along the way, you’ll discover the techniques used to mature the taste, texture, color and smell of scotch whiskey while of course tasting each of the distinctions yourself. Within the city, the Scottish Whiskey Heritage Centre provides fun for all, including interactive displays for the whole family, though if you prefer the real thing, the Glenkinchie Distillery in West Lothian is your best bet. Still, for the average person, Scotland continues to drum up images of haggis. As the country’s capital, Edinburgh prides itself on its authentic Scottish experience, but the weary need not worry that they’ll be made to sample the boiled stomach lining and its stuffing of organs, vegetables and spice. Vegetarian versions are available these days, though haggis in its original design remains a country favorite. Restaurants such as the Walter Scott Tearoom are a welcomed way to sample the local fare, both at teatime and beyond. Much like London though, there are plenty of menus available in nearly every style. When scones and tea no longer hold you, check out The Verandah Tandoori, which has been awarded ‘Best Indian Restaurant’ by the Scottish Good Food Guide and ‘Restaurant of the Year’ by M8. For an even more contemporary way to spend a casual evening, try The Courtyard Bar and Brasserie where the wine list is said to “please both purse and palate.”
- J.Vann